Disappointed and defeated…
That’s the emotional state of each of my clients who call when their Maytag washer won’t spin.
If that is what you are dealing with, don’t throw in the towel just yet.
In this article, I’ll show you what to do when your stalwart Maytag washer leaves you with a load of soggy laundry.
Table of Contents
There are several possible reasons why your Maytag washer is not spinning. They include a faulty lid switch, a damaged drive hub kit, a bad actuator switch, or a motor coupling failure. Other less common causes include issues with the motor, transmission, timer, and control board.
To go through each of these possible causes, I’ve joined forces with the one and only Rick Woods, the Austin-based appliance whisperer.
Let’s dive into the depths of this matter.
The first thing you should always do when dealing with any Maytag washer that won’t drain or spin is to run the diagnostic mode and see if the washer displays any error codes.
From my experience, the diagnostic mode works 60% of the time. Rick says the feature saves his day 75% of the time.
How to access the diagnostic mode on most Maytag washers:
- Rotate the selector knob anticlockwise several times and set it in the regular position.
- Rotate the dial 3 clicks to the right, then 1 click to the left, and finally one click to the right. (RRRLR)
- If you did it correctly you will have entered the diagnostic mode. All the led lights will start blinking.
- Rotate the dial again one click to the right to enter the error code mode.
- Press the start button. All the lights will start blinking.
- Then rotate the dial one click to the right for the washer to display the error code mode.
“You will need your owner’s manual to interpret the error codes and also check for any special instructions”
If the washer displays any of the error codes below, list those as your first culprits.
|F0 E5||Unbalanced load issue|
|F5 E1, E2, or E3||Lid lock issue|
|F7 E1/E5||Shift actuator issue|
|F7 E6||Motor or capacitor issue|
|F7 E7||A problem with the tub, drive belt, or splutch cam kit.|
It’s also at this point that you should make sure that
- You haven’t selected a low or no spin cycle
- The load is balanced
- You haven’t used too much detergent
- The washer is level
This is because these issues can cause spinning problems.
|Cause||Replacement Part Cost|
|Washer drive hub||$5-$30|
|Item stuck between the tubs||No replacement part is needed|
1. Worn Out Washer Drive Hub Kit
|Part||Washer drive hub kit|
|Location||Below the wash plate|
|Ease of troubleshooting||Medium hard|
|Replacement part cost||$5-$30|
When a washing machine is about to start spinning, the transmission disengages from the agitator and engages with the drum to spin it.
This is made possible by the washer drive hub kit, which connects the basket to the transmission.
If the drive hub becomes worn or damaged, it will not properly engage with the drive shaft, and hence the basket won’t spin.
One way to diagnose the drive hub kit is by manually rotating the wash plate.
According to Rick…
“Ideally, it should rotate together with the basket. If not, it’s not engaged to the basket”
Examine the drive hub kit for any visible signs of damage, wear, or breakage.
If the drive hub kit is the culprit, you will need to replace it.
Since it’s located below the wash plate, you will start by removing the agitator and the wash plate. Then unscrew the screws holding it and replace it.
Removing, and replacing the drive hub kit is quite laborious.
When you are washing small items such as socks and lingerie, they sometimes get swallowed up in the washer.
One of the areas they end up getting stuck in is between the outer and inner tubs, which can prevent the drum from spinning.
The easiest way to diagnose whether something is stuck between the tubs is to rotate the tub manually.
The tub should rotate seamlessly. However, if the tub feels stuck and it’s hard to move, there may be something stuck.
One of the members of our Simply Swider Appliance Repair Community had a similar problem with their Maytag MTW5630TQ1 washer.
Our stand-by repair technician advised him to peep between the tubs. A few moments later, he said he found a sock, and the spinning issue was resolved.
If the item is stuck along the upper circumference of the tub, you are in luck since you don’t have to separate the two tubs to pull out the culprit.
If it’s at the bottom, you will have to disassemble the whole washer to separate the two tubs.
“While it’s doable, it’s a tough challenge, and you will require specific tools. So, you may need the help of a professional.”
3. A Faulty Washer Lid Switch
|Location||Under the top panel or near the lid hinge|
|Ease of troubleshooting||Easy|
|Replacement part cost||$20-$100|
|Note||Only found on top-load washers|
By design, Maytag top-load washers cannot spin when the lid is open.
However, sometimes the washer does not sense when the lid is locked and that’s where the problem comes in.
If the lid switch is faulty or broken, it can prevent the washer from entering the spin cycle even after you have closed the lid.
According to Rick…
“This is because the switch fails to complete the electrical circuit that is necessary for the motor to run.”
One way to diagnose the lid switch is to use the diagnostic mode to check if the washer will display the error codes F5 E1 or E2.
Other ways of diagnosing the lid lock include
- Visual inspection for damages.
- Using a multimeter to test for continuity.
- Bypassing it using a magnet or cutting the wires.
If the lid switch is the cause of the non-spinning woes, the solution is to replace it. Luckily, they are cheap and easy to replace.
4. A Faulty Shift Actuator
|Location||At the bottom of the washer|
|Ease of troubleshooting||Medium|
|Replacement part cost||$20-100|
At the end of an agitating cycle, the shift actuator shifts the drive system to the spin cycle.
“The shift actuator engages the necessary gears for spinning the drum at a high speed,” Rick expounds.
If the shift actuator fails or malfunctions, the washer will be unable to switch to the spin cycle.
The first sign that the shift actuator has a problem is when the washer displays the F7 E1/E5 error code.
Locate the actuator at the bottom of the washer, near the motor and transmission.
Visually inspect the shift actuator for any visible signs of damage or wear, such as broken wires and loose connections.
Use a multimeter to test continuity by placing the probes on terminals. A well-functioning shift actuator should output a reading of zero or low resistance.
The fix here will depend on the specific issue. If it’s a minor issue, such as a loose connection or a faulty component within the actuator, it may be possible to repair it.
If the actuator switch is damaged, replace it with a compatible one.
5. A Bad Capacitor
|Location||Bottom of the washer|
|Ease of troubleshooting||Medium|
|Replacement part cost||$50-$100|
When the motor of a washer is starting, it requires an extra burst of power to generate the necessary torque to initiate spinning.
If the capacitor is bad, the motor won’t be able to initiate spinning.
In that case:
“You may hear the motor humming or making clicking noises without initiating spinning,” Rick says.
Start by visually inspecting the capacitor for any visible signs of damage, such as bulging, leaking, or burning marks.
If the capacitor appears swollen or shows signs of leakage, it is likely faulty.
Test the capacitor using a multitester that has a capacitor testing mode. Compare the reading to the value on the capacitor’s case.
For instance, one user from our Facebook group found the capacitor for their Maytag MVW7232HW top load washer had melted.
If your capacitor has failed, you will need to replace it.
To access it, tilt the washer and use a screwdriver to remove the screws securing it. Then replace it with a new one.
6. Damaged or Loose Drive Belts
|Location||Underneath the drum or tub|
|Ease of troubleshooting||Easy|
|Replacement part cost||$20-$70|
In both top-loading and front-loading Maytag washers, the drive belt is responsible for spinning the drum or tub during the spin cycle.
Drive belts are prone to different issues that can prevent a washer from spinning. This includes
- Becoming loose due to stretching.
- Getting misaligned or slipping off the pulleys.
- Breaking down or snapping from the pulleys.
- Wearing down and getting thinner.
To inspect the belts, start by locating them.
“For most top-load Maytag washers, it’s located at the bottom, connecting the motor and splutch cam assembly,” Rick says.
Visually examine the belts. Look for signs of wear, fraying, or cracking.
Check if the belt has proper tension-neither too loose nor too tight—and if it is properly aligned on the pulleys or gears.
While there, inspect the splutch cam assembly, especially the nut that secures it.
If the belts are the problem, replace them. Luckily, they are cheap and easy to replace.
To remove the belt, rotate it manually as you pull it away from the pulleys.
7. A Faulty Motor Coupling
|Location||Between the transmission and the motor|
|Ease of troubleshooting||Easy|
|Replacement part cost||$20-$50|
|Note||Not found on belt drive washers|
The motor coupling, or motor drive coupler, is made of two plastic pieces with rubber between them that connect the motor to the transmission.
This part usually breaks to protect some of the other expensive components around it.
For example, in the case of an overloaded washer, the motor coupling will break as a protective measure for both the transmission and the motor.
“If the motor coupling is broken or worn out, it can’t transfer power from the motor, preventing the drum from spinning.”
Start by locating the motor coupling. It’s mostly between the motor and the transmission.
Examine the motor drive coupling for any visible signs of damage, such as cracks, wear, or breakage.
Pay attention to the rubber center piece (dog ears) and the plastic drive forks. If any part appears broken, worn, or significantly damaged, it is likely a sign of a problem.
Manually rotate the motor drive coupling. A perfect working coupling should rotate smoothly without feeling stiff.
If you have identified the motor coupling as the culprit, replace it. Luckily, they are cheap and take only a few minutes.
Here is the thing:
There is no Maytag washer that’s foolproof against spinning issues. Below are some of the most commonly mentioned models when it comes to spinning problems.
Luckily, the guide above applies to all these models, whether they’re top or front load.
|Washer Series||Model Number|
|Maytag Neptune Stackable||MLG2000AWW|
|Maytag HE||RYPW 588-03|
|Maytag Front Load||MHW7100DC|
|Maytag Bravos X MVWX700XW2||MVWX700XW2|
|Maytag Neptune MAH-3||MAH-3|
|Maytag Centennial MVWC7ESWWO||MVWC7ESWWO|
|Maytag Centennial Commercial||–|
|Maytag Bravo XL||–|
|Maytag Bravos MCT||–|
|Maytag Legacy Series||–|
|Maytag 2000 Series||–|
|Maytag 3000 Series||–|
|Maytag 5000 Series||–|
|Maytag 4000 Series||–|
|Maytag Side Washer||–|
|Maytag Commercial Technology||–|
|Maytag Direct Drive||–|
|Maytag Heavy Duty||–|
|Maytag Neptune TL||–|
|Maytag Epic Z||–|
A non-spinning Maytag washer does not necessarily mean the unit has died on you.
Most of the time, the cause is something simple that you can fix without calling the repair service.
The most common causes of this problem include:
- Faulty actuator switch
- Bad capacitor
- Item stuck between the tubs,
If you find it hard to troubleshoot the cause or replace a faulty part, I’d highly recommend consulting a professional repair technician.
In the meantime, check out our ‘Ask the Expert‘ page for one-on-one assistance and free advice.
Frequently Asked Questions
If your Maytag or any other washer won’t spin, start by running the diagnostic mode to see if the washer will display any errors.
Some of the error codes to check out are errors related to unbalanced load (F0 E5), lid lock (F5 E1, E2, & E3), shift actuator (F7 E1/E5), and motor-related errors (F7 E6)
Yes, the most common causes for a non-spinning Maytag washer are simple issues that most people can sort out. For instance, a faulty lid lock, a bad capacitor, and a defective actuator switch.
Also, using the diagnostic mode to identify the specific cause is pretty simple.
Before calling a professional, I’d highly recommend trying the basic diagnostic steps. This includes running the diagnostic mode.
From there, it’s easy to decide whether to call a professional or fix the issue yourself.
For complex causes such as a failed drive hub kit, something stuck between the tubs, or a motor, I’d suggest calling a professional repair technician.