Alright, let’s tackle this:

Ever been faced with a bunch of cryptic letters and numbers on your Whirlpool Cabrio washer’s display? Yep, those are error codes, and they’re like your washer’s way of saying, “Hey, I need some help here.”

So, what’s next?

Fear not, because you’ve got an ally in me. As an appliance technician who’s seen more than my fair share of these pesky codes, I’m here to guide you through decoding and resolving the most common ones that pop up on your Whirlpool Cabrio.

Alright, roll up your sleeves, and let’s dive in!

12 Common Whirlpool Cabrio Washer’s Error Codes

First things first:

You need to know what each error code means. Those letters and numbers are the clues you need to fix your washer’s problem.

With this in mind:

I contacted my pal, Nick Andrews, a Louisville-licensed appliance technician. Like me, he’s fixed several error codes while working on different washers.

Together, we created a list of the common error codes users encounter on their Whirlpool Cabrio washers.

Check them out:

Common Error Codes	Meaning	Possible Causes
F1	Main control board failure	Faulty main control board Damaged pressure switch hose
uL	Unbalanced load	Excessive loads Small loads Unbalanced washer Damaged suspension rods
F5 E2 F5 E3 dU	Lid unlock failure	Obstructed door lid Faulty lid lock assembly
F0 E3 oL	Overload	Overloaded washer basket
F6 E3 F6 E2	Communication failure between the main control board and the user interface control board	Loose connection between the two boards Main control board failure
dL F80 F82 F84 F85	Door lock error	Partially closed door Obstruction near door Faulty door latch Main control board failure
5d Sd	Excess suds	Wrong detergent usage Excess detergent usage Clogged drain pump
F7 E5	Shifter error	Failure of the main control board Loose connection to the shifter Faulty clutch
LD F32	Long drain	Kinked drain hose Faulty drain pump
F7 E1	Power loss during the spin cycle	Power failure Main control board failure
F7 E3	Stator (Motor) failure	Loose wire connections Faulty stator Main control failure
F51	Rotor Position Sensor (RPS) failure	Loose wire connections Faulty RPS

Now that you know what these error codes mean, it’s time to begin our troubleshooting journey.

In the next section, I will explain how to get rid of each error code listed.

Let’s get into it!

1. Error Code F1

Error Code	F1
Meaning	Main control board failure
Possible causes	A faulty main control board Damaged pressure switch hose

Problem:

Alright, let’s dissect this. The F1 error on your washer’s display is a clear SOS signal. It’s screaming, “Hey, I can’t tell how much water is in here!”

Nick chips in with his two cents: “When you see F1, think pressure switch hose or control board.”

Identification:

First stop: the pressure switch hose.

Power off, and let’s get to work:

• Step 1: Unscrew the console to reveal its secrets.
• Step 2: Tilt it forward, and disconnect the harness.
• Step 3: Spot the pressure switch hose on the board. Disconnect.
• Step 4: Test time! Blow through the hose.

Struggling to puff air through? Bingo, the hose is your culprit.

But wait, if the air’s flowing freely, then your control board’s waving the white flag.

Solution:

For a problematic hose:

• Step 1: Head to the back panel of your washer.
• Step 2: Unscrew the console.
• Step 3: Tackle the screws holding the small tab and retainer.
• Step 4: Slide the retainer out.
• Step 5: Detach the old hose, snipping any tape on its way.
• Step 6: Unclamp it from the tub.
• Step 7: Off with the old, in with the new. Cut the new hose to match.
• Step 8: Connect one end to the board, and the other to the tub.
• Step 9: Secure it back in place with tape and clamps.

And for the control board:

• Step 1: Dive into the console again.
• Step 2: Unhook the wire harness.
• Step 3: Disconnect the hose from the board.
• Step 4: Memorize or snap a pic of the wire connections before you pull them off.
• Step 5: Unscrew the control board from its throne.
• Step 6: Out with the old, in with the new.

2. Error Code uL

Error Code	uL
Meaning	Unbalanced load
Possible causes	Excessive loads Small loads Unbalanced washer Damaged suspension rods

Problem:

Here’s the lowdown: The uL error code on your washer stands for ‘unbalanced load’. It’s your machine’s way of saying, “Hey, something’s not right with the way I’m spinning.”

Nick, a seasoned tech buddy of mine, pointed out the usual suspects:

• A washer that’s not sitting level
• Putting too few items in the wash (underloading)
• Stuffing it to the brim (overloading)
• Worn-out suspension rods

Real-world scenario:

In our Facebook community, a good number of folks faced this issue. More often than not, it was those suspension rods failing to keep the tub steady.

Identification:

First thing’s first – is your washer playing seesaw? If your floor’s level but your washer’s wobbling, that’s your first clue.

Next, open up the tub. Are you trying to wash your entire closet in one go, or just a couple of hand towels? Both extremes can throw your washer off balance.

But what if it’s neither? That’s when you suspect the suspension rods.

Solution:

Before you dive into the deep end, let’s check off the easy fixes:

• Get that washer sitting straight.
• Adjust your laundry load – either lighten it up or bulk it up a bit.

Still seeing that uL code? It’s time to roll up your sleeves for some suspension rod replacement.

Here’s how we do it, step by step:

• Step 1: Unplug and cut off the water supply to your washer.
• Step 2: Disconnect those water hoses.
• Step 3: Remove the wiring harness and tube guard.
• Step 4: Secure the washer’s lid with tape and unscrew the top from the cabinet.
• Step 5: Lift the top and prop it up.
• Step 6: Slide some towels behind the cabinet for protection and clamp them in place.
• Step 7: Out with the old rods, starting with the ball support removal.
• Step 8: Attach the rear of the new rods to the support braces.
• Step 9: Off with the old bushings from the braces.
• Step 10: Lower the top, screw it back on.
• Step 11: Tip the washer back, and remove the old rods from the base.
• Step 12: Fit the new rods in, and hook them to the braces.
• Step 13: Lift the top again, and place bushings onto braces.
• Step 14: Attach the suspension rods to the braces.
• Step 15: Lock the rods in place with the ball support.

3. Error Code F5 E3 (F5 E2 or dU)

Error Code	F5 E3, F5 E2, or dU
Meaning	Lid lock failure
Possible causes	Obstructed door lid Faulty lid lock assembly

Problem:

Here’s the lowdown: Encounter an “F5 E3,” “F5 E2,” or “dU” error on your washer’s display? They’re all signposts pointing to one issue – a door lock malfunction. As my colleague Nick often says, “These codes typically indicate a hitch in the lock assembly.”

Identification:

Hold up, don’t rush to conclusions! First, give the lid lock a thorough once-over. Clear any obstructions that might be playing the spoilsport. If this simple fix doesn’t cut it, brace yourself – you’re looking at swapping out the lock assembly.

Solution:

Safety is paramount! Power down your washer and shut off the water supply. Now, let’s get to work:

• Step 1: Start by loosening the screws that keep the console in place.
• Step 2: Gently unhook the wire harness linked to the top panel.
• Step 3: Next up, find the lid lock harness nestled near the pressure switch hose.
• Step 4: Pry out the small tab positioned at the washer’s rear.
• Step 5: Carefully remove the lid lock harness.
• Step 6: Secure the washer’s lid with tape for safety and lift it.
• Step 7: Unscrew and extract the lid lock.
• Step 8: Unplug the lid lock harness and guide it out.
• Step 9: Time to fit in the new lid lock assembly.

4. Error Code oL (or F0 E3)

Error Code	oL or F0 E3
Meaning	Overload
Possible causes	Overloaded washer basket

Problem:

Here’s a straightforward one – the oL error code. It’s short for “Overload Error” and pops up when your washer’s fed more than it can chew. In our Facebook community, some members have come across this as F0 E3, but don’t get confused; it’s the same old “too much laundry” alarm.

Identification and Solution:

Let me share a nugget from Nick, a fellow tech guru: “Fixing the oL error is a walk in the park. It’s all about giving your washer some breathing room by reducing the load.”

Here’s how you handle it:

Just scoop out a few garments from the drum and hit restart. Simple, isn’t it? Your washer will thank you for lightening its load and get back to its happy spinning.

5. Error Code F6 E3 (or F6 E2)

Error Code	F6 E3 or F6 E2
Meaning	Communication failure between main and user interface control board
Possible causes	Loose wire connection between the two boards Main control board failure

Here’s a professional observation from Nick, a colleague of mine: “The F6 E3 or F6 E2 error code is an indication that there’s a communication breakdown between the washer’s main control board and the user interface control board.”

Common Causes:

• Loose wire connections between the two boards.
• A potential malfunction in the main control board.

Identification:

Recall a case from last spring: A member of our appliance repair Facebook group faced this issue. The root cause? A loose wire connecting the two boards.

But wait:

If the wire is secure and the error persists, the main control board might be the culprit.

Solution:

Before you jump into disassembling your washer, try a simple reset. Unplug the machine for a few minutes, then power it up again. Sometimes, the boards just need a reboot to clear the error.

Still no luck?

Here’s the next step:

• Step 1: Unplug the washer and turn off the water supply.
• Step 2: Gently remove the screws that secure the console to the main top.
• Step 3: Check and secure the wire connection between the main control board and the interface board. This can rectify any loose connections.

If the problem persists:

It’s likely you’ll need to replace the main control board. In such cases, consulting with a professional or reaching out to the manufacturer for part replacement is advisable.

6. Error Code dL (F80, F82, F84, or F85)

Error Code	dL, F80, F82, F84, or F85
Meaning	Door Lock Error
Possible causes	Partially closed door Obstruction close to the door Faulty lock assembly Main control board failure

Problem:

Let’s break it down. The dL error is like a red flag, indicating a Door Lock Error in your washer. It’s not uncommon in our line of work. Nick, a fellow technician, chips in, “When you see dL, or its cousins F80, F82, F84, or F85, it’s shouting about a lock assembly hiccup.”

Common culprits:

• A door that’s shy of closing fully
• Unwanted guests like clothes or small objects near the door
• A lock assembly that’s given up
• A main control board that’s lost its way

Identification:

First off, let’s tackle the basics – is your washer’s door shut tight? If not, there’s your culprit. Next up, let’s play detective. Any sneaky obstructions by the door? Clothes, lint, a forgotten sock maybe?

If the coast is clear, but the lock isn’t clicking in place, we’re looking at a failed lock assembly. And if everything else looks good, the spotlight turns to the main control board.

Solution:

To kick the dL error to the curb:

• Step 1: Clear any door obstructions and ensure a snug door closure.
• Step 2: Still no luck? It might be time for a new lid lock assembly. Take it from a Reddit user who tried the clean-up route with no joy.
• Step 3: If it’s come down to this – the main control board might need replacing. It’s the last resort, but sometimes necessary.

7. Error Code 5D (or SD)

Error Code	5D or SD
Meaning	Excess suds
Possible causes	Wrong detergent usage Excess detergent usage Clogged drain pump filter

Problem:

Here’s a common mix-up:

Many users read the error code as ‘SD’ when it’s actually ‘5D’. But regardless of how you read it, the message is clear – there’s too much soap in your washer. This over-sudsing issue can stem from a few slip-ups:

• Maybe you’re using a non-HE (high-efficiency) detergent?
• Perhaps you’re a bit heavy-handed with the HE detergent?
• Or could it be a clogged drain pump filter?

Identification:

Let’s start with the basics. Check your detergent. If it’s missing that “HE” label, you’ve found the culprit. HE washers need HE detergents – they’re like a match made in laundry heaven.

But here’s the twist:

Even if you’re using the right detergent, overdoing it can still trigger the 5D code. And if you’re confident you’ve got the detergent game right, it’s time to eye that drain pump filter.

Solution:

Nick, a fellow tech-savvy in the field, has a tip: “If your washer’s drum is throwing a suds party, just let it be for about 10 to 15 minutes.”

Why, you ask?

Because your washer is smarter than you think – it knows how to deal with extra suds and will get back to business once it’s done.

But wait, there’s more:

If the drum is sud-free and 15 minutes have passed with no change, roll up your sleeves – it’s time to tackle the drain pump filter.

So there you have it. Whether it’s a soap opera or a filter fiasco, with a bit of patience and the right approach, you can clear up that 5D error and get back to smooth washing.

8. Error Code F7 E5

Error Code	F7 E5
Meaning	Shifter failure
Possible causes	Loose connection to shifter Clutch failure Main control board failure

Problem:

Ever come face-to-face with the F7 E5 error on your Whirlpool Cabrio washer? Well, it’s the washer’s way of saying, “Hey, we’ve got a shifter or clutch issue down here!” Nick, a pro in the field, chimes in, “This error is often a sign of clutch failure.”

Identification:

To get to the bottom of this, start by inspecting the wire connections to the shifter or clutch. Any signs of damage or breakage? There’s your smoking gun. But don’t stop there. Keep an eye out for any obstructions around the shifter or clutch – they’re just as guilty of causing this headache.

Solution:

Here’s your game plan:

1. Begin with a hard reset. Unplug your washer for five minutes. It’s surprising how many times a simple reset can kick things back into gear.
2. No luck? Roll up your sleeves; it’s clutch replacement time.
   • Step 1: Unplug and turn off the water supply to your washer.
   • Step 2: Detach the water and drain hoses.
   • Step 3: Tape the lid shut and carefully lay the washer on its back.
   • Step 5: Gently remove the motor.
   • Step 6: Take off the clutch from the stator, making sure to disconnect the wires.
   • Step 7: Ease the stator out of the washer.
   • Step 8: Clean up the slider ring – it deserves some love too.
   • Step 9: Fit the new clutch onto the stator.

Wrapping up:

Reconnect the wires and piece everything back together. Your washer should be ready to tackle laundry day without the pesky F7 E5 error.

9. Error Code LD (or F32)

Error Code	LD or F32
Meaning	Long drain error
Possible causes	Kinked drain hose Faulty drain pump

Problem:

Encountering an LD error code on your washer can be a bit of a headache. Nick, a seasoned technician in the field, explains: “This code indicates that your washer is taking longer than expected to drain the water. Some models might show it as F32.”

Usually, the main suspects here are parts of your washer’s drainage system – particularly the drain hose and the pump.

Identification:

First things first, let’s deal with the drain hose. A quick trip to the back of your washer should do the trick. Check out the entire length of the drain hose for any twists or kinks – they’re often the culprits.

Hose looks fine? Then it’s time to shift our focus to the drain pump.

Solution:

Ready to ditch that LD error for good? Follow these steps:

1. If the drain hose is twisted, straighten it out and give the cycle another go.
2. Still seeing that pesky error? The drain pump might need a replacement.

Here’s how you can replace the drain pump:

• Step 1: Unplug the power and water supply from your washer. Safety first!
• Step 2: Detach both the water and drain hoses from the washer’s back.
• Step 3: Secure the washer lid with tape and gently tilt the washer forward, resting it on its front.
• Step 4: Find the drain pump and disconnect the wire harness attached to it.
• Step 5: Unscrew and remove the old pump.
• Step 6: Detach the internal drain hose from the pump, using a clamp.
• Step 7: Out with the old, in with the new – place the new pump and secure it back in place.
• Step 8: Reconnect the wires and attach the internal drain hose to your new pump.

10. Error Code F7 E1

Error Code	F7 E1
Meaning	Power loss during spin cycle
Possible causes	Power failure Main control board failure

Problem:

When the F7 E1 error code flashes, my mind immediately goes to a power hiccup during the spin cycle. Nick, a seasoned technician, sums it up well: “This code is a red flag that your washer lost power mid-spin. The usual suspects? The power supply or the main control board.”

Identification:

To pinpoint the issue, start with the basics: the power cord and the outlet. Give the power cord a thorough inspection for any signs of damage or burns. If the cord looks good, shift your focus to the outlet.

A simple trick? Plug a different device into the outlet. No power? There’s your problem, leading to the F7 E1 error.

But if both the power cord and outlet are in good shape, brace yourself – it’s likely a faulty main control board.

Solution:

How to kick this error to the curb? If the outlet’s at fault, it’s time for some electrical repair. A burnt power cord? Get a replacement pronto.

And if these aren’t the culprits, don’t panic. You’re not the first to face this. I recall a Reddit user with the same dilemma. When it’s down to the main control board, there’s just one way out: replacement.

11. Error Code F7 E3

Error Code	F7 E3
Meaning	Stator (Motor) failure
Possible causes	Loose wire connections Faulty stator Main control failure

Problem:

Here’s the lowdown on the F7 E3 error code: it’s basically your washer’s way of saying, “Hey, I think there’s something off with the drive motor (aka stator).”

Identification:

Now, let’s play detective. The first place to look? The wire connections to the stator. Loose wires can be sneaky troublemakers. Nick, a seasoned pro in the field, advises, “Check those connections first. If they’re loose, you’ve hit the jackpot. But if they’re snug and secure, it’s likely the stator itself that’s acting up.”

Solution:

Here’s your game plan to clear that error code:

1. Control Board Mind Change: This sounds fancier than it is. Just unplug your washer for a good five minutes, then start a new cycle. It’s like telling the main control board, “Think again, buddy.” If the stator’s actually in good shape, this reboot might just do the trick.
2. Stator Replacement: If rebooting didn’t cut it, it’s time to roll up your sleeves. Replacing the stator is your next move. Here’s how:
   • Step 1: Power down your washer and shut off the water supply. Safety first!
   • Step 2: Disconnect those water inlet and drain hoses.
   • Step 3: Securely tape the washer lid and gently tilt the machine forward.
   • Step 4: Dive in and unthread the motor rotor mounting screw. Remove the cover to reveal the heart of the operation.
   • Step 5: Loosen the bolt holding the stator and spacer in place.
   • Step 6: Gently remove the stator and its shield off the tub shaft.
   • Step 7: Unhook those wire connectors linked to the stator.
   • Step 8: Time to part ways with the rotor position sensor.
   • Step 9: Fit the new stator onto the tub, securing it in place.

12. Error Code F51

Error Code	F51
Meaning	Rotor Position Sensor (RPS) failure
Possible causes	Loose wire connections Faulty RPS

Problem:

Just last week, Nick dropped this knowledge bomb: “The F51 error code? It’s a sign your washer’s Rotor Position Sensor (RPS) is on the fritz.”

In plain English, once your washer’s brain – the control board – senses trouble with the RPS, it’s F51 city until you sort out the sensor.

Identification and Solution:

First things first:

Try a hard reset on the main control board. How? Simply unplug your washer for five minutes, then plug it back in. It’s like giving your washer a mini-break.

But here’s the kicker:

If this quick fix doesn’t do the trick, no need to panic. Take a leaf out of this Reddit user’s book. He tackled the same error by giving his RPS a good old clean.

Ready to get your hands dirty? Here’s your roadmap:

• Step 1: Cut off your washer’s water and power supply.
• Step 2: Securely tape the washer’s lid and gently tilt it back.
• Step 3: Loosen and remove the rotor mounting screw.
• Step 4: Take out the screws holding the stator.
• Step 5: Time to meet the RPS. Locate it attached to the stator.
• Step 5: Remove the motor shield for better access.
• Step 6: Disconnect the wire harness from the stator.
• Step 7: Carefully detach the RPS from the stator.
• Step 8: Disconnect the wire connectors from the RPS and clean the sensor thoroughly.

After you’ve played your part:

Reassemble everything and power up your washer. If the F51 code is still crashing the party, it’s time to replace the sensor.

6 Whirlpool Cabrio Washer Models And Their Common Error Codes

The following Whirlpool Cabrio models display error codes more frequently than others:

Model Name	Model Number	Error Code
WTW5840BW0	Whirlpool 3.8 Cu. Ft. Cabrio Top Load Washer	uL F7 E3 F7 E5 LD
WTW7300DW0	Whirlpool 4.8 Cu. Ft. High Efficiency Top Load Washer	dL F5 E3 F1 F7 E1
WTW5640XW2	Whirlpool 3.6 Cu. Ft. Top Load Washer	5D F7 E1 uL F7 E3
WTW6400SW	Whirlpool Cabrio 4.5 Cu. Ft. Top Load Washer	oL LD F7 E5 F51
WTW6600SW2	Whirlpool Cabrio 4.5 Cu. Ft. Top Load Washer	F6 E3 F51 F5 E3 5D
WTW7040DW0	Whirlpool Cabrio 4.8 Cu. Ft. Top Load Washer	F6 E3 F1 oL dL

In Summary…

An error code is nothing to be afraid of. Once you understand what it means, getting rid of it would be a piece of cake.

If you’re finding it difficult to fix any of these error codes, join our Facebook group!

Have other issues with your washer?

Check out my other troubleshooting guides for clever tricks and fixes!