Tag Archives: Foyer

“Hey there beautiful” glitter art

hey there beautiful artwork

When I first envisioned a vignette for the foyer I knew I wanted a welcoming piece of typographical art. Then I saw Stephanie Creekmur’s “Hey Y’all” gold print and fell in love. You may remember it from my Industrial Chic foyer mood board.  I was hoping that the sophisticated and shimmery gold would help balance out the raw metal and wood of the industrial table.  After showing it to my mom, she convinced me we’re not southern enough to pull off “y’all” (despite the fact we live in Virginia and I use the term all the time), so I decided to make my own version.

I wanted an uplifting and welcoming phrase to great visitors, and I eventually settled on “Hey there beautiful” for no other reason that it makes me happy. Using PicMonkey I created the text the way I wanted it to look.

picmonkey artworkI printed it onto card stock in a golden color to ensure that no color would bleed through the glitter. Next, using a fine tip paint brush I painted matte modge podge (affiliate) over the letters.

hey there beautifulI did one letter at a time then sprinkled extra fine gold glitter (affiliate) over it. I continued going one letter at a time while going back and filling in bare spots.

typographical artworkThis is a super easy project. Just make sure to use the finest tip brush you can find. I actually used two different ones to get the wider and thinner parts of the letters. I let it dry for 2 hours before framing.

hey there beautiful artworkI got the frame from Target on clearance for $7. I love the juxtaposition of the slightly rustic frame with the gold glitter.

how to make a rustic tableAnd the foyer is officially done! I love how the vignette looks paired with the wainscoting behind it. And doesn’t it look just like my inspiration board? I still need to get something for the owl vase. I’m thinking a cotton branch.  The final touch to this space will  be the stairs makeover which will hopefully be later this summer.

Anyone else using glitter to light up their house?

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DIY Industrial Table Tutorial

 

how to make a rustic tableI am so excited to share this Restoration Hardware Knock-off with you! If you remember back to my mood board for our Industrial Chic foyer than you’ll remember that an industrial style console table was at the heart of the design. I love the Dutch Industrial Console Table from Restoration Hardware. I don’t love the $695 price tag so much. Luckily, I came across this knock off industrial side table from the Golden Sycamore which inspired me to try our hand at making our own table.

Part 1: Building the table

We started off with a slab of Ikea butcher block that we had left over (yay for free) from the kitchen counter tops.  It was already the correct depth, so we just had to cut it to length to fit our space.

how to make a console tableNext we had to drill the holes for the table legs (aka 3/4″ EMT conduit tubing). Cody used a 1 in forstner bit (affiliate) attached to a drill to bore the holes.

building a console tableFor the bottom shelf, he drilled a hole straight through, but for the table top he only drilled half way as seen below.

how to build a tableThe legs are made of 3/4″ galvanized electrical metallic tubing (EMT).

rustic console tableCody cut them to length using a metal chop saw.

console table tutorialTo keep the bottom shelf in place and level on the pipes, Cody attached them using compression couplings.

industrial tableThis part wasn’t easy. Each coupling had to be ground out because they have a stop collar in the middle of the fitting. For that, he used a high speed rotary tool (Dremel Tool-affiliate) with a small grinding wheel so the couplings would slip completely over the tubing.

compression coupling Last, each piece of tubing was set in place with a countersunk set screw, visible from the sides of each counter-top slab in the picture about and a few below. To achieve this, he pre-drilled slightly smaller hole than the standard silver wood screws used.

how to make an indutrial table

Part 2: Finishing the table

The table was now built, but it looked rather modern with its blonde wood and shiny metal. I decided to use stain to give it an aged and industrial look.

First, I sanded the wood down then used a pre-stain wood conditioner (affiliate) to insure that the stain penetrated the wood evenly. This is an important step when staining soft woods.

pre stain on tableI wanted the edges of the table to be slightly darker than the rest of the table to add an aged or burnt look to it. This step made me really nervous as I didn’t know if the treatment would work or if I would wind up with a funky dark straight line around the edges. Using an old sock and minwax dark walnut stain (affiliate) I had left over from the kitchen countertops, I applied the stain to all the edges of the table.

aging woodHonestly, I was a little nervous at this point, but I carried on. After applying the stain to the edges I immediately gave them a light sanding with a fine sanding block then followed with a coat of Minwax mission oak polyshades (affiliate) (the same we used on the engineering print frames). And miraculously it came out exactly as I envisioned! The dark walnut around the edges gradually absorbed into the wood and looked less harsh. I wouldn’t have chosen the polyshades because it already had polyurethane in it, but it was what I had on hand and didn’t dry shiny at all.

how to make a table look oldI also went back and rubbed the dark walnut stain onto the pipes making sure to rub extra in the couplings.  It took two coats of stain to get the look I was really going for, but this was a much easier process than some of the chemical treatments I have seen to age metal.

how to age galvanized pipesLike my inspiration piece I wanted to add some numbers to the table. Industrial pieces always seem to have numericals on them.  Using cardboard stencils (affiliate) and leftover Slate Grey acrylic paint I added our house number to the bottom left of the table.

numbers on tableOnce the numbers dried I sanded over them with a sanding block to give them more of a distressed look. In retrospect I wished I had sanded them a little bit more.

stencil on wood tableFinally, I finished the table off with a coat of Minwax Paste Finishing Wax(affiliate). I promise this post was not sponsored by Minwax. Totally a coincidence that I used all their products. I was so excited to finally have a project to used wax on. It gave me that perfect hand rubbed look I was going for.

how to wax a table

I can’t tell you how exciting it is to have a project turn out exactly how you envisioned it! These pictures do not do the table justice and I just love the way the rusticness of the table plays off the formalness of the wainscoting.

wood and metal indutrial tableThe mirror, frame, and turtle are from Target while the large basket I picked up for 50% off at A.C. Moore.

reclaimed metal and wood table

Cost:

Butcher block                         already had

Stain                                            already had

pre-stain                                    4.98

Sanding block                         2.97

Conduit                                      7.74

stencils                                        2.39

forstner bit                               11.97

couplings                                     3.10

wax                                                 9.97

total                                               43.12

A console table for under $50…..can’t beat that! Obviously the cost will vary depending on what you already have on hand. Having the butcher block saved us a ton. Also, items like the wax, pre-stain, and bit will be used on future projects as well.

The foyer is really starting to come together now. All that is left is to hang the new light fixture, make a new piece of art for the frame, buy an industrial basket for keys, and find a statue to put next to the basket. Stay tuned for those updates and more!

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How to to transform a foyer with Board and Batten wainscoting

how to make board and batten wainscoting

For those of you who have been following along with this project on Facebook you know that we’ve been working on this project for almost 2 months and that we’ve hit some snags (like noro-virus and a rotted out wall), but thank God for small miracles because this project is finally done!

The foyer was never in particularly bad shape to begin with (well except for the scuffed up floors which we replaced before moving in), but we dreamed of this space as a grand entrance to our home that would really “wow” guests.

foyer beforeA couple of weeks back I shared our vision of this space with a mood board that we dubbed “Industrial Chic“. By far the biggest and longest part of this makeover was the board and batten wainscoting that we thought would bring a refined element to the entrance, so that is what we started with. Board and batten wainscot is made up of straight lines that create squares and rectangles. We had done this design before in Sophie’s nursery, but this time I wanted a high wainscot so we decided to go with a design with squares stacked on top of rectangles. Since we also used the board and batten design on our fireplace and kitchen island, this design helped tie the whole house together.

The first thing we needed to do was remove all of the door casings and chair rail. This was easy enough to do, but this is where we also ran into our first problem. It’s hard to tell in the picture below but if you look closely you may notice that above the white line the wall is smooth, while below the white line the wall is textured. That’s because above the chair rail is actually wallpaper that has been painted over……..sigh.

remove all the moldingsWe didn’t want to go through all the effort of removing the wallpaper, especially as it is holding up well, so our solution was plywood. We cut the plywood to 72 in high and attached it to the walls with adhesive and a nail gun. This effectively got rid of our two texture problem. If your walls are all smooth already than you can skip this step and save time and money.

DIY wainscoting Next, we add the horizontal pieces that make up the top of the wainscot, the separation between the squares and rectangles, and the baseboard. These were cut out of the same plywood that we used for the back. See my post on our island cover panel for more on cutting plywood.how to make board and batten wainscotingFinally, we added in all of the vertical pieces that make up the squares and rectangles.

high wainscotingHere’s a run down of all the measurements to achieve this look:

How to make wainscotingThe reason the bottom pice is 7.5 inches high instead of 3.5 is that the baseboards we choose are 4 in. You want to make sure that the height of the paneling that shows above the baseboard is equal to all the rest of the paneling. Make sure before you start adding the paneling you also consider the layout of the wall and where seams might lie. We were able to cover all the seams with a piece of panel.

The last step in the wainscot build out was to attach the finishing pieces. We used pine 1×2’s for the cap piece as I wanted a slight ledge around the top.  We added 4 in baseboards to the bottom with 1/4 round on top to finish off the floors.

wainscot tutorialOnce we had all the paneling installed, Cody started the tedious step of caulking all the seams and nail holes. Followed by the even more tedious step of sanding down everything.

caulking wainscotingFinally, we were able to paint. It took 1 coat of primer and 3 coats of white paint (Valspar Ultra White in Semi-gloss) to cover it completely. We used a foam roller for the walls and cut in with a brush around the edges.  This was by far the worst part of the project as we also had to paint all of the door moldings, 3 doors, and the crown molding. At one point I considered giving-up, but we soldiered on and look at the results:

wainscot in foyerThe wall color is Seal by Martha Stewart for Glidden (available at Home Depot). This was my first time using Glidden paint and I have some thoughts on it, but I’ll save that for another post.wainscot with hooksThe long wall by the door looked a little bare, so we added these hooks for guests to hang up their coats and purses. All of the hooks are from Target. The coat hooks were $3.59 a piece and the robe hooks for $3.99 for a two pack.white wainscotThe back of the front doors got a coat of nice bright white paint to match the rest of the trim. It makes me hate the front doors slightly less.

DIY wainscotingMy favorite part of the foyer is where the wainscot runs into the bathroom and closet doors. I love all the texture created by the doors, molding, and wainscot. I particularly love the contrast of the new door knobs against all of the white. The knobs are Weslock Impresa (the same we put in the kitchen).Board and batten in foyerAnd here is a before and after comparison. I love how much brighter the foyer is now; unfortunately those stairs are like a huge energy suck. I’m hoping to getting around to making over the stairs sometime this summer.

We still have to build a console table for this space, install a new light fixture, and decorate, but now that the wainscot is finally done I feel like the whole project is wrapping up. Here is a quick break down on the cost of the wainscoting:

1×2                       13.32

wall hooks         14.76

baseboards      50.88

shoe molding   11.7

plywood            97.79

paint                   29.97

Total                   $218.42

As you can see this wasn’t a “cheap” project and it certainly involved a lot of sweat equity, but the change it made is quite dramatic and we feel that it is a classic addition to the space that will last through multiple makeovers.

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