Category Archives: Tutorial

DIY Greek Key Console

I have been really digging all the Greek key lately. I love that it’s a simple and traditional pattern and therefore won’t date itself too quickly. I also love that it’s super easy to add a little of it almost anywhere. You may remember that I already added some Greek key trim to the curtains that were hanging in our living room at our first house. Well, the second I saw this dresser on Pinterest I knew I had to replicate it somewhere in our new house. We had decided to put our old entertainment center in the kid’s new playroom, so I decided that a new TV console was in order. I wanted something with a mid-century look that I could snazz up with the Greek key. I had played with the idea of converting my current dresser, but it was  a little high and I would still have had to buy a new dresser. So, off to the thrift store I went and on my very first shot I found this beauty…..

THift store console

I thought I was looking for a dresser, but it wound up that the thrift store had just received a whole shipment of the TV consoles from a hotel liquidation. Who would of thought? I actually found a genuine TV console! I love that the drawer fronts were completely flat, that the drawers were on casters, and the the whole piece was solid wood. Oh, and I got it for $30!

Here’s the story of how an old and outdated hotel TV console became a beautiful sleek console with Greek key trim with mid-century flair.

white greek key dresser

First, we took off some of the decorative aspects of the console including the decorative plinth, the back splash, and the hardware.

tv console

That left us with a much more sleek and modern looking piece of furniture.

tv console

Next, we filled in the holes from the hardware and from where a TV used to be mounted on top with Spackle and let it dry before sanding it all down.

tv console

Finally it was time to attach the Greek key. We used 1.5 in primed yellow pine lattice for the trim. It took us 13 ft to do both drawers. At .72 a foot from Home Depot it was 9.23 to to all the trim. We used a chop saw to cut the pieces to length. We really just eye balled how long to make the pieces based on the pattern we were trying to achieve.

tv console

We attached the pieces to the drawer fronts using a pneumatic air gun although you could also use wood glue.

tv console

Here’s what the trim looks like all complete.

greek key

Next, we caulked all the edges to give it a seamless look.

greek key console

Because of the threat of rain we had to move the whole operation inside for the painting. The thing weighs a thousand pounds so it was not a fun experience.  For some reason I didn’t take any painting pictures but here is what I did: Before painting I sprayed the whole console down with All Surface Prep to remove the shiny finish. This stuff is awesome and will keep you from having to sand every nook and cranny.  Next ,I primed everything with a coat of Zinnser Cover Stain using a foam roller. In between each coat of primer and paint I did a light sanding with fine grit sand paper to ensure an extra smooth finish. I used Behr oil based semi-gloss enamel in bright white for the paint. I did two coats of the paint waiting a full 24 hours between sanding and re-coating. To save my roller and brush I wrapped them in a plastic bag and put them in the freezer in between coats. They won’t dry out and you won’t have to clean them.

painting furniture

Unfortunately, we had 2 disasters while painting. First, my mom’s dog ran into the room, straight through the paint and onto the carpet and sofa. It’s a good thing I had nothing better to do than spend 30 minutes with paint thinner cleaning the carpet…. About an hour after cleaning up after the dog, Lizzie somehow reached the paint try that I had placed up way high and decided to do her own painting, You can see her work below. It was almost enough to make me write off oil based paint completely…almost.

painting disaster

Luckily, the finished product was so amazing it blew our minds! I apologize for the overly bright pictures and poor staging, but we are still in between houses and living with my mom. I promise to post new pictures once we get into our new home.

greek key dresser

greek key trim

greek key dresser

The knobs are from Home Depot. I love the art deco look of them!

sware brush nickle knob

And in case you forgot how it looked to begin with here is one more before and after shot!

before and after greek key

I have to say that this was one of my favorite projects to date. I just love turning something old into something new and wonderful. Now I can’t wait to get this sucker into our new house and start decorating around it!

Update: Here it is in our new house complete with our engineering prints!

tv console makeover

Pssst….. the family room is finally done! Family Room Reveal

 And don’t miss 16 more gorgeous console makeovers! console table ideas

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How to make your old deck look new again

how to stain a deck

I love a wood deck. I love them more even than the composite decking; however, they do require some maintenance (well, so do composite decking for that matter). Whether you inherited an old deck or have been falling behind on the maintenance of your current one, this tutorial will show you how to easily revive your deck so that it looks new again by power washing and applying deck stain. Below is a picture of my deck before I started. You can see that it has faded to a greenish-grey and looks rather dirty. Also you can see that we replaced a couple of boards last fall that are a different color.

deck before

Step 1: Power wash

WARNING: Don’t power wash new pressure treated wood. Allow the wood to first acclimate for at least 6 months.

The first thing you need to do is clear off your deck and clean it. I recommend you use a power (or pressure) washer. You can rent one from Home Depot for around $70 or buy one from Harbor Freight for $99. We use our power washer every year, so we went ahead and bought one.  You’ll find all kinds of deck cleaners at the hardware store, but I have found that the power washer does a perfectly adequate job on its own. The only thing you really to need to know about power washing is to not allow the wood to pulp. If the wood starts to pulp you need to either lower the pressure on the machine or move the nozzle further from the wood. Otherwise, you can’t really mess this step up. As you can see from the after picture below, your deck will look pretty much like new pressure treated wood at the end of this step.

deck after

Step 2: Stain and/or seal deck

Once you have your deck nice and clean you’ll want to preserve it and enhance the wood. I use Olympic Maximum Stain and Sealant which will do both for you. You’ll also have to pick a color. Stains are sold as clear, toner, semi-transparent, or solid color. Which you pick is entirely dependent on the look you are going for. I like the look on natural wood so I choose the toner in Honey Gold which gives the wood a hint of color but still allows the grain to show through. You will also need a roller on a pole and a paint tray.

deck stain materials

Before applying the stain make sure the wood is dry and clean. Pour stain into the paint tray and apply with the roller. I like to use a foam roller. The stain will be very runny so be careful not to spill or spray. Begin working in a small area, overlapping your strokes. Be careful not to drip stain in an area you are not working. If the drip dries before you apply stain to that area it may leave a permanent mark.  The deck itself will stain pretty quickly, the rail and posts will take longer. Allow that stain to dry for 24 hours before walking on it.

Below you can see my deck before and after cleaning and staining. The deck looks new again with a nice rich color and a sealant that will protect it. I usually repeat this process every 2-4 years depending on weather conditions.


before and after deck stain

DIY wheelbarrow planter

wheelbarrow planter

I started seriously considering making a wheelbarrow planter after seeing it in an This Old House magazine. I had an old wheelbarrow that had seen better days sitting on the side of my house, and I had a spot in the garden that need some color and some height, so this seemed like the perfect solution.

DIY planter

We had used this wheelbarrow at one point to mix concrete in and it now had this lovely rust covering the inside of it. That alone wouldn’t have necessitated the retirement of this tool; however,…..

old wheelbarrow

it also had a Jerry-rigged handle made out of conduit piping after Cody broke off one of the handles while mulching and……

old wheelbarrow


the wheel was completely flat. We decided it was probably time for a new wheelbarrow which left this one without a purpose.

flat tire


Luckily turning a metal wheelbarrow into a planter is as easy as drilling a whole lot of holes into the bottom of it for drainage then filling it with potting soil.


wheelbarrow planter DIY

You could also paint the wheelbarrow a fun color but I thought the brick red matched nicely with our house and stood out against the all green backdrop I was putting it against. I wanted the planter to look a little less industrial and a little more intentional so I decided to dress it up with a monogram. I found this image online and simply printed it onto card stock and cut it out with an utility knife.

s monogram

I dry brushed the paint on using a coarse chip brush and Craft Smart acrylic paint in Bright Yellow. I choose yellow because it picked up nicely on the yellow flowers planted in the planter.

yellow s mongram

I have to say that the planter looked nice before I added the monogram, but the monogram really made the whole thing pop especially from the street. I also love how it breaks up what used to be an entirely green corner of the yard. Oh and other than the soil and plants this whole project was free. Can’t beat that!

DIY wheelbarrow planter with stencil

DIY travel map tutorial

Personalized travel map

I’m excited to finally share this project with you. I made this DIY travel map as a Mother’s Day gift for my mom, so I had to wait to give it to her first before showing it off. My mom spent 20 years in the Navy before becoming a dedicated History teacher who takes her students around the world each summer, so I really wanted to memorialize all the places she has lived and visited. This project is really easy and can be customized for any person or family.

I made the print in MS PowerPoint. First I found a clip art of a world map I liked. It was originally orange and I was trying to match my mom’s color scheme of grey and red. To change the color of an image right click on it >Format Picture> Picture> Recolor. I used two different fonts. Batang comes standard with MS Office and I Love What You Do is available for free from Font Space. I added the hearts by going to Insert> Shapes> Basic shapes and drawing the heart to size. To change the heart color right click on heart>Format Shape> and Change Fill and Line Color.

DIY travel map

Here’s a close-up of the print when it was finished. The red hearts represent where my mom lived while the blue hearts represent places she has visited.

DIY travel map


I printed it onto card stock then framed it in a frame from Michael’s matted to 8×10. I love being able to give such a personal gift, and of course my mom loved it!

DIT travel map

Reclaimed wood moose head tutorial


pallet moosehead tutorial

Update 1/3/2014: Our moose head now sits center stage in our family room on the recently refurbished fireplace in our new house

I am so excited about this project! It combines two hot items in home decor right now: a moose head and reclaimed wood! I was actually inspired by a Pottery Barn Kids catalog that had a reclaimed wood whale featured on one of its walls. It wasn’t even an item for sale, just a piece of art staged in the room. I fell in love with it the second I saw it, but I knew a whale wouldn’t really fit into our decor. It only took me a second to decide what shape we should use: a moose head! We’ve joked about getting a moose head for months now. Not a real one, but one of the tons of artistic renditions done of them. Even Cody was super excited when I presented this project to him (which was great since he did most of the work). Oh, and did I mention that this project was FREE? Yep, it cost us zip, zero, nada.  We had all the materials already on hand for this project although honestly it doesn’t take much. We used some of the wood left over from the pallet picture frame project as well as some additional pieces of scrap wood lying around the garage. This project can be done using new wood as well; you’ll just have to age it first. Here’s my quick and easy tutorial for how I aged some of the pieces in this project using paint and stain:

How to age wood with paint and stain

For starters you need to find an image you want to replicate. If you are artistic you could always draw your own. I simply Googled “moose head” in Google Images and searched until I found one I thought would make a good silhouette. It was surprisingly harder than I thought to find one I liked , but I finally did.  Next, Cody laid out the wood in a pattern that gave us the most variance in the wood tones. You can see the image I selected below. Cody decided to free hand the image to the wood using a pencil. If you are artistically challenged such as myself you could always have the image blown-up at Office Depot, cut it out, than trace it on to the wood.

pallet moosehead tutorial

Before you start cutting the wood you’ll need to attach them together with vertical pieces on the back side of the wood. Cody used a jig saw to cut out the pattern. Here’s what it looked like half way through:

pallet moosehead tutorial

You may have to continue to brace the pieces together by adding extra pieces to the back depending on your pattern. You can see below that the back of our moose head is not a pretty sight. Luckily, no one will see that side.

diy pallet moosehead

Cody stapled a piece of left over picture hanging wire onto the back of the moose head in order to attach it to the wall.

DIY pallet moosehead

And that’s it! It was actually a really easy project. I am so in love with it, and it’s actually surprising lighter than it looks. We originally hung it on a bare wall in the Living Room behind our front door but because we usually keep our front door open we decided it needed a more prominent spot in the house, so it’s moving into the dining room where it can be seen the second you walk into the house!

DIY pallet moosehead

Pssst….. the family room is finally done! Family Room Reveal

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Pallet and Burlap picture frame

DIY pallet and burlap frame tutorial I am totally excited to finally share this project with you! I saw this gorgeous reclaimed wood and burlap extra-large picture frame from Iron Accents and instantly fell in love. The problem: It’s $110! The solution: pallets and burlap I had lying around from other projects.  I decided to hang this frame in our hall bathroom. I felt like it needed one more piece of art after we completed the antiqued washroom banner and it fit the rustic vintage theme of the room.  I also had this picture of the girls I had taken a while ago in the tub that I loved. This seemed like the perfect way to utilize it.  This entire project cost me $3.38 ($1.50 for the 8 x 10 print from Target and $1.88 for the decorative nails from Hancock Fabrics). I started this project by prepping the wood. Even though we saved these pallets from a dumpster they were practically new blonde wood and I really wanted to replicate the aged and varied wood tones from the original frame. If you are also starting with blonde wood here is a tutorial I made on how I aged the wood with paint and stain: How to age wood with paint and stain

While I was waiting for the wood to dry I made my picture mat. I had this matting already lying around. I probably took it out of an old frame and it was pretty beat up. The burlap was left over from the burlap art I had made previously for the living room. All I did was cut the burlap slightly larger than the mat and hot glue the outside edges to the back of the mat. Once I was done with the outside edge I used a utility knife to cut out the inside of the mat, then I glued that down as well.

burlap picture mat

Here’s what it looked like when I was all done. I was actually pretty nervous about how the burlap mat would work but it turned out to be super easy. burlap picture matting

Next, I laid out the wood to get the look I was going for. I used the mat as a template to decide how big I wanted the frame to be.

pallet and burlap frame

Using a chop saw Cody trimmed all the wood to be the same length.

pallet and burlap frame

We decided to create a border for the frame using more scrap pallet wood, which was a different wood tone. This allowed us to nail all the different pieces into the top and bottom edge of the interior portion of the frame and ensure that their were no nails showing on the front. We used a pneumatic brad nail gun attached to our air compressor to secure the border to the wood. pallet and burlap frame

Next, I secured the print to the matting simply taping it down with masking tape. pallet and burlap frame

To give the frame so extra flair we decided to attach the mat to the frame using decorative nails (this is an affiliate but is also the exact nails I used) which you can pick up at most craft stores or online.  These came from the upholstery section of Hancock Fabric and are 3/4″ square nails. They also make it easy to switch out the picture in the future as all you have to do it pull out the nails. pallet and burlap frame

After marking where we wanted the nails to go with a black marker we simply hammered them in using a rubber mallet.

pallet and burlap frame

And here it is with the matting all attached!

pallet and burlap frame

To hang the picture Cody attached 2 screws to the back of the frame and connected them with picture hanging wire we had left over from a store bought frame that came with extra. You can also see how ugly the back of the frame is compared to the front.

pallet and burlap frame

And here is the finished product hung up in the bathroom! I love how rustic and yet simple it is.

pallet and burlap frame You can see how the entire cottage bathroom makeover turned out here. And don’t forget to check out the rustic moose head we made from the remaining pallet wood.


Wood (pallet, reclaimed, or new)


8×10 mat

8x 10 prints


masking tape

3/4″ decorative nails– Affiliate


picture hanging wire

hot glue sticks


chop saw

hot glue gun

nail or brad gun


power screw driver

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How to age wood with paint and stain

This is the process I used to create the aged wood look of my reclaimed wood moose head and extra large pallet and burlap frame. How to age wood with paint and stain

This is a quick and ridiculously easy tutorial on how to age wood using paint and stain. I used pallets for this project and raided the garage for paint and stain, so it actually cost me nothing to do this. To start sand your wood down just enough to remove large splinters. If your wood is brand new take both sides of a hammer to it as well as other garage tools to create dents and gouges. Since my wood was from pallets it was already pretty banged up. This technique is very easy and almost impossible to mess up. The key is to create depth and texture using many light coats of paint and stain. Wait until the stain or paint is dry to the touch before moving onto the next step. Honestly, I found that by time I finished one step the first pieces were already dry. Here’s what my wood looked like before I started to faux age it:

How to age wood with paint and stain

I’m going to use this wood in two upcoming projects I am really excited about and I wanted different shades of wood so I raided the garage and found these 3 stains:Mission Oak, Red Mahogany, and Jacobean. Ideally you don’t want the stain to be gloss or have polyurethane in it. Only one of mine did and it came out fine though.

How to age wood

Step 1: Using a chip brush add an even coat of stain to each piece of wood.  At this point it will still look like new wood just stained. I used the same brush for all 3 stains so I wouldn’t waste any brushes. Keep your stain and brush out for steps 2 and 4.

How to age wood

Next, find a flat finish white paint. I used ceiling paint which worked out perfect, but you could also use latex primer or craft paint.

How to age wood with paint

Step 2: Dry brush the white paint onto the wood. To dry brush dip the brush into the paint then try to remove most of the paint on the side of the can. Next, using quick light strokes brush over the top of the wood.  You’ll notice that the wood is starting to look aged now. Here’s what is should look like:

How to age wood with stain

Step 3: Dry brush a coat of stain onto each piece. You’ll notice that this starts to really bring out the texture of the wood. For this step I used the mission oak on the unstained wood to give it more depth.

How to age wood

Next, I created a grey wash by mixing equal parts grey craft paint with water. I used Americana Slate Grey that was left over from another project.

create a grey wash with grey paint and water How to age wood with paint

Step 4: Dry brush the grey wash onto the wood.

  how to age wood


Step 5: Dry brush the stain on one last time. When the stain is completely dry I gave it a light sanding with a sanding block.

How to age wood

That’s it! You’re done. Wasn’t that easy? You really can’t screw this up. If you find you are a little heavy handed on one step, just keep repeating the steps until you achieve the look you are going for. Here’s another look at them:

How to age wood

And one last close-up:

How to age wood

Make sure to check out the two projects I used this wood for:

Reclaimed wood moose head

Pallet and burlap extra large picture frame

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How to make an outdoor cushion cover out of a drop cloth

How to make an outdoor cushion cover out of a drop cloth

We bought our outdoor conversation set from World Market about 5 years ago. Since then its been repainted twice and the cushions recovered twice. I love the look of cream colored outdoor cushions. They’re so light and refreshing, well until they get wet and start to mildew. I tried washing them but all that did was fray the seams, so I decided it was time to make new cushion covers. I made them out of a $7 canvas drop cloth from Harbor Freight.

Dirty and mildewy outdoor cushions


Here is my drop cloth laid out. Before you begin working with it make sure you wash and iron it. One of the benefits of working with a canvas drop cloth is that it doesn’t have a right or wrong side when you start with it.

how to make cushion covers out of a canvas drop cloth

Once you have your canvas prepped, measure your cushion and add 2 in to each side for seam allowances. Cut a top a bottom piece for your cushion including in the extra 2 inches. Next, measure the sides of your cushion (the depth) and again add 2 in to each side. You should have 4 side pieces total. If you want to add piping to your cushion (as I did) then measure the perimeter of the cushion and cut that length of cording. Finally, cut a narrow strip of fabric the same length as the cording (typically about 2-3 in wide). If your fabric isn’t long enough to make the piping in one cut that is fine. Just cut two or three pieces and sew them together. how to make cushion covers out of a canvas drop cloth

I started by making the piping. If you aren’t doing this skip down a couple of steps.  Attach the zipper foot to your sewing machine which allows you to get the stitch as close as possible to the cord. Place your cord in the middle of the fabric and sew the fabric shut keeping as close to the cord as possible. How to make piping

Here is what it should look like when you are all done.

how to make piping

Now, line up the rough edge of your piping with the cut edge of your cushion top and sew the two pieces together all the way around the whole rectangle again keeping the stitch as close as possible to the piping

hot to make a cushion cover out of a canvas drop cloth. If you haven’t done so already, sew all of your side pieces together to make one long strip. Make sure to alternate the sides (mine was long side, short, long, short). Now you’re going to attach the side  pieces to the top of the cushion cover. With the right side of the cushion cover facing up, attach the sides pieces long ways to the extra fabric from the piping, then sew them together just as you did when you attached the piping the first time. Make sure to keep as close to the piping as possible. Here’s what it should look like when you are done:

how to make cushion covers out of a canvas drop cloth

Next, take the bottom cushion cover piece (the only piece that should be left) and pin it to the opposite sides of the side pieces with wrong sides facing each other. You are now going to sew all the sides together with the exception of the one where the zipper will be going in.  Hopefully, you are still with me at this point as I find zippers to be utterly confusing. Sometimes I just have to stare at them for 15 minutes before they make sense.   At this point your cushion cover should still be inside out. Flip back one side of the fabric so that the right side is facing up. Pin the top of the zipper to the right side of the fabric. Before sewing the zipper down make sure that the zipper is open. If you had switched the foot on your sewing machine, switch it back to the zipper foot now. Sew the seam as close to the zipper as you can get. Then do the same for the other side. how to install a zipper

Flip your cover right side out and stuff your cushion in. It should fit snuggly. Here’s what mine looked like all done!

how to make cushion covers out of a canvas drop cloth

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How to antique paper in 3 easy steps and new clothes pin bathroom art

How to antique paper bathroom art

This project started because  I realized the one piece of art in our hall bath wasn’t really cutting it. I wanted something to stick with the vintage theme but didn’t want to spend a lot of money, so I came up with the idea to make antique looking cards spelling out a word and hung up by clothespins. I’m sure I saw something similar to this in one of the 1000 pins I look at each day on Pinterest, but I can’t remember where. You may be wondering why I referred to this antiquing process at easy.  Well, I had no intention of reinventing the wheel so when I started this project I goggled “how to antique paper” and man was I bewildered when I started reading the 20 step process. Are these people serious? I spent a day or two thinking about this project as well as some trial and error before I came up with a simple and easy 3 step process.


Paper (I used index cards)

Black tea

Brown shoe polish

Paper towel

Step one of how to antiw paper: apply brown shoe polish to edges

Using a paper towel quickly apply brown show polish to all of the edges. I say quickly because you want to make mistakes and have overlap.

how to age paper soak in black tea

Place the paper into a black tea bath for a minute or two. I just poured hot water into a Pyrex container and added a tea bag for a few minutes to create the bath.

how to age paper step 3 put in over for 2 minutes

Place paper onto a baking sheet and put in the oven at 300 degrees for 2 minutes until the edges start to brown.  And that’s it! I placed my cards in a book overnight to flatten them a little more (as seen below).

place paper between books to flatten

Here’s what they looked like all done.

How to antique paper

Instructions to make clothes pin bathroom art


Antiqued index cards

clothes pins

sisal rope (or whatever you have on hand)

2 wall hooks

I highly recommend you antique the paper first and let it dry, then print on it. I tried printing on it first and it caused the ink to run a little when I put it into the tea bath.  Open Ms Word and set your paper size to index card (page layout> size> index card). I played a while with different fonts and sizes but ultimately I choose Engravers MT in 150. One of the things I really love about this project is that it is fully customizable with any words in any font.

how to print onto index cards

Next, stick your index cards in the printer and start printing. I had made a couple of extra cards to play around with just in case I stuck them in the printer wrong or didn’t like how they looked. Here they are all done. Aged paper bathroom art

Then, we attached some left over hooks we had to the wall. This took some patience trying to figure out the right height and how far apart we wanted them. Once we had it all figured out we tied the ends of the sisal rope, that was left over from the lamp shade project, into cute loops and hung them from the hooks. sisal rope knotted and attached to wall with hook

Finally, attach all of the index cards to the rope with clothes pins. I’m so happy with the way it came out. Oh and did I mention it was free?! Yep, we had all of the materials on hand from other projects.

aged paper bathroom art with clothes pins

Tutorial: How to extend a small curtain rod with conduit piping

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA In our master bedroom we hung a wall of curtains behind our bed to mask the awkward window placement, but finding a curtain rod large enough (ours is 110in) can be costly. A nice one will easily run you $100. Plus we wanted the rod to match the one we already had over the other window in the room. The solution: Buy a small (40 in) matching curtain rod and extend it with $2 worth of conduit piping.


  1. Small curtain rod with finals
  2. 1/2 in EMT conduit piping cut to size
  3. extra wall bracket
  4. pocket drapes

The conduit piping can be found in the electrical section of your hardware store. Make sure to measure how long you want you rod to be before going. Most stores will cut the length for you but if they don’t offer this service you can use a hacksaw. We used 1/2 inch piping because our rod slide into it, but you may want to bring your rod to the store with you and try out different widths to see which will work best.

First take your rod apart and insert each end into opposite ends of your conduit ( see below). If the fit is loose crimp the pipe to the rod using pliers or a vise. You could also add some glue here if the fit isn’t secure.

Use conduit piping to extend a small curtain rod
Use conduit piping to extend a small curtain rod

Now that the original rod is attached at both ends of the pipe, screw in the original finals.

Add the finials from the original curtain rod to the conduit.
Add the finials from the original curtain rod to the conduit.

Install the original wall mounts at each of end of where you want to hang your rod. Depending on how long you have made your rod, I would recommend you install one or two additional wall brackets in the center. These can be purchased for cheap in the hardware section of your local store. Below you can see the new rod hung on the wall.

A small curtain rod extended using conduit piping.
A small curtain rod extended using conduit piping.

Finally, add your pocket drapes and you are done! You’ll notice with the pocket drapes you can’t even see the rod. Only the finials show.

A wall of curtains masks the awkward window and adds softness to the room.
A wall of curtains masks the awkward window and adds softness to the room.